By Friday, March 4, 2016 4 Permalink 0

Gammelstad Old Church TownToday is my final farewell to our magical days in the Swedish Lapland snow and all things winter. On our last two days in Sweden, we drove for miles, visited a tear-inducing, heartbreaking art show, wandered around in a blizzard and took a tour of the Tree Hotel with views from the top of the world and minimal interiors.Tree hotel view from the dragonflyTree hotel the dragonfly interiorThe Dragonfly was my favourite – a rusty dream cabin up in the sky, with minimal furniture and views that make you stop and stare. It is a beautiful combination of wood, leather, metal and neutrals that compliment the landscape beyond.Tree hotel the blue cone interiorSauna interior Back on the road, we headed south on the quieter roads to Bovallen (quiet as in – we basically had them to ourselves and passed only four other cars, bliss) and beyond to take in the scenery and yes we spotted our first and only Moose of the trip!Bovallen SwedenHistorical photo Havremagasinet grain storeWe arrived in Boden to meet the lovely Hanna who gave us a tour of the unseen rooms at the top of Havremagasinet. One of the largest art galleries in Sweden it has an amazing history and proudly shares contemporary art dealing with themes and topics such as democracy, human rights and freedom of speech.Maria Friberg Havremagasinet Boden SwedenThis photograph is part of the Maria Friberg exhibit. This quiet and solitary scene shouts quiet a loud message don’t you think? I am sure you can all relate to her feelings of how the world is heading. Maria examines the themes of ‘the information age’s moral dilemma: how much is too much technology? And how can we continue our ruthless exploitation of earth resources’.Knutte Wester Havremagasinet Boden SwedenI have to admit I do not visit art galleries often enough and I was not prepared for the emotions that the Knutte Wester show would unleash on me. In his art, Knutte Wester gives a voice to people who do not have the opportunity to make themselves heard. The stories behind the vulnerable figures he creates in bronze moved me to tears. I simply cannot understand how our world can treat people in the unthinkable ways it does. To know how these children and millions more like them all over the globe, spend their days in fear and uncertainty – rarely experiencing the sort of kindness that you and I take for granted every day. I want to scoop them all up, away from these situations that no person should have to cope with and make their days happy ones.Knutte Wester Havremagasinet Boden SwedenThe stories are heartbreaking and I couldn’t even stay to watch the end of the short films. Hopefully his work will be coming to London very soon so if you do not find yourself in Sweden I hope you’ll visit when it arrives in the UK – these really are stories that need to be seen and heard. It’s worth the heartache to learn all about the people underneath the bronze.Havremagasinet Boden SwedenPhew, my heart has still not recovered from that day. Just looking at these pictures overwhelms me, if I linger too long I’ll be crying all evening. So back out into the snow we must go. This time to Gammelstad Old Church Town – a Northern Scandinavian church town of more than 400 tiny red cottages with white doors.Lake Talvatis JokkmokkThese beautiful little cottages were used on Sundays and during major religious festivals and are grouped around the medieval stone church in Gammelstad. The cottages served as overnight stops for parishioners who lived too far away to make the journey to the church and back in one day. A whole family or two would be packed into the tiny multi-functional rooms inside, all jostling for space in the modest cabin beds at night.Gammelstad Old Church TownGammelstad Old Church TownAs it was a quiet Sunday in winter when we visited, there were very few people around, and yes, people do still privately own most of the houses! Luckily we had an amazing and knowledgeable guide, Beatrice to tell us the history of the town and the area surrounding it. She snuck us into the church – which is closed for renovation and we got to go inside one of the cottages too.Gammelstad Old Church Town heritage interiorGammelstad Old Church TownOnce alone and back out in this winter air, we wandered up and down the snow drift covered streets (three feet deep in places). It felt like I must have stopped and snapped nearly every window, shutter and lace curtain in the whole town, on our quest to find the herringbone patterned door of number 84. Even sub-zero blizzard conditions won’t stop me when I have my frozen heart set on something!Gammelstad Old Church TownGammelstad Old Church TownSwedish styleOkay then, one more window scene for the road. We couldn’t have asked for better weather conditions while we were there, the snow was thick and fluffy and on our last day, we were bid farewell with a gentle blizzard and then discovered a gigantic log pile on our way to the airport!Lobster and swan in the snowBefore I leave you, I thought I’d share the links for a few lovely shops we visited, artisan products you will love and other crazy things to see. I left Swedish Lapland with just a few modest purchases (I’m good now) – some magical Cloudberry facial oil from amazing natural beauty brand c/o GERD, a one of a kind pewter cup, that was made while we watched by the brilliant craft workers at Jokkmokks Tenn and a pair of Handknitted Mittens from Hantverksbutiken. Cloudberry facial oil co Gerd SwedenJokkmokk Tenn WorkshopJokkmokks Tenn work stationI was chomping at the bit to get in the store next door too which sells the beautiful capes like Eva’s but sadly it was closed, and I also became quite obsessed with the idea of weaving Sami Bands at Stoor Stalka.Stoor Stalka Jokkmokk For an amazing night out – have an early dinner at Bistro Norrland (the dessert was a work of art), then walk through the snowy streets and spend the evening it in a giant igloo with friends new and old – listening to Ice music made on instruments made of ice!

Be sure to check out Swedish LaplandVisit Sweden, and Destination Jokkmokk – for more amazing places to visit and stay, they helped us plan our trip and we can’t thank them enough! Our return wish-list is already brimming with new things to do in Northern Sweden. I hope you enjoyed my snowy adventure – if you missed the other posts you can read them here – Part I – Part II and Part III. Have a wonderful weekend xxx

  • poppytailsandtrails
    March 5, 2016

    I have so loved your posts on Sweden. I am not long back from Tromsø, Norway having had a super successful trip to see the Northern Lights but what I so loved was being in a winter wonderland. You are helping to make me want to visit Sweden now:-)

    • JeskaHearne
      March 5, 2016

      Thanks Pauline! Loved reading your travel posts too. Norway is top of the list for our next snowy break. We didn’t see any Northern lights where we were as it was rather cloudy, but to be honest – after long days travelling and trekking around in the snow – we could barely keep our eyes open at night! :)

  • Lynn Page
    March 18, 2016

    I’ve just read this beautiful post Jeska although I had read your other posts on this beautiful land earlier. To share your heartbreak is moving, thank you for bringing attention to the artist whose work I want to see but I’m afraid of how I’ll react x

    • JeskaHearne
      March 19, 2016

      Thank you Lynn :) Oh but do go and see. It makes me want to do something bigger than myself to help in some way. I am still figuring out what that is – but it will happen.